Hive 4 - March Tutorial- Scrappy Pixel Block for Sara

This block is an exercise in value - go find the option on your phone to change photos to black and white. It will be super-helpful. I find the mono setting on my iPhone works best for me in this process.  This is also an opportunity to raid your stash of 2 1/2" squares - you'll need 36 of them across a full range of values to make this 12" finished block.  

I first saw the scrappy pixel block on @sushi.farmer's Instagram account.  The hashtag #scrappypixelquilts will provide lots of inspiration!  This post is a brief tutorial on making the block.  My 2023 hive made a set of these blocks for me - I like them so much I want to make the quilt bigger so I've chosen this block for 2024 as well. This image is the blocks made by 2023 Hive 5. 

This tutorial documents my process for making a block.  I find it's easier to build the block on a design wall (or floor!) over several brief sessions than doing the arranging all in one go.  Sewing is the easy part here.  

I'm looking for full-on scrappy here - all colors allowed as long as the value gradation is good and the hue is pure. Please do avoid muddy colors (e.g., beiges and browns). In general, I  prefer some texture or print over solid fabrics and I'd like as much variety in your blocks as your stash and time allow.  My choices include a bit of metallic (the ombre confetti near the center and some glitter on the cupcake square at top left); that's fine in a few squares. You can also see a few squares which lean towards the novelty realm (the cupcake, the butterfly, the snowflake, and the trees).  Again, this is fine as long as the overall feel is generally smooth. 

To make the block, you'll need 36  squares (2 1/2 inches per side) distributed across 6 values:

Very Dark - 6 squares

Dark - 10 squares

Medium - 8 squares

Medium Light - 6 squares

Light - 4 squares

Very Light - 2 squares

I'm not asking for 36 unique fabric squares - we have an upper limit of 10 fabrics in our StashBee rules. Use your stash and duplicate where you need to.  I'd most appreciate variety along the Very Dark diagonal axis.  The more variety, the better, from my perspective.  If you want/need to stick to 10 fabrics, that's fine.  If you have more, that's fine. 

I start by pulling squares and creating 4 groups ranging dark to light.  Then I take a photo and convert it to black and white.  Busy, high-contrast prints don't work as well because they often read as multiple values. One of those is evident in this sample, at the center of the second column from the left. I've marked it, along with a couple of others which are out of place, in the black and white image below. 

Then I move squares around based on the photo working towards the 6 values I need. Here's an example of a sort into 6 value groups.  There's still work to be done but I'm ready to start organizing my block. Groups 2 and 3 (from left) are too similar in value and I'm not happy with the orange stars - there's too much contrast with the white. 

Once I have rough value groups, I build the block and start filling in gaps and rearranging squares.  Notice that the dark diagonal is running bottom left to top right.  Please use this orientation as you build your blocks.  This will help with nesting seams in the end.  

I take lots of photos and swap a few blocks each time, gradually refining my value gradient. I found this work easier to do a few minutes at a time.  I spend about 30 minutes sorting and planning across several 3 - 5 minute sessions.  Keep this part intuitive - I could obsess for days on this and that isn't the point.  

In these first two photos, I started with half the block and need a smoother value gradient along the red line in the B&W photo.  There's too big a jump as the first run of fabrics is laid down. 

This is getting better, after many adjustments.  The blocks circled in red are still not providing the value gradient I'm looking for.  More swapping to do.  

This looks good. 

Once your 6 x 6 block is designed, it's time to sew it together.  Use your favorite method.  I like to use the "web method" to assemble blocks like this.  I chain piece columns 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6 together top to bottom without cutting the threads. 

Then I sew columns 2 and 3 together and finally columns 4 and 5.  At this point, all the vertical seams are sewn and I can press each row in an opposite direction so seams nest.  

Please press your odd rows to the right (towards the dark end in row 1 as I'm showing the photos) and even rows to the left.  This will help all the blocks nest together in the end.  Once the vertical seams are pressed, you can sew the horizontal seams.  

 

In this image (below), you see the piece folded on seams 2 and 5.  I can sew along both top and bottom to sew two horizontal seams.  Then I refold for seams 1 and 4.  Finally, I fold in half and sew seam 3. 

Please press your horizontal seams open.  To do that, you'll need to cut the threads from sewing the vertical seams.  Here's a picture of one of those on my block. 

Your block should be about 12.5 inches square.  You may have intersections that are not perfect.  That's OK!  I know I'm fussier about blocks I'm sending to someone else than I am about blocks I'm keeping for myself.  Here's a close-up of a couple of messy intersections I decided to keep.  Let this be your guide for re-sewing.  Perfection is not the goal here and I'd rather you spend time on the value gradient than perfect corners. 

Don't worry about trimming your final block.  I'll do that as I put the blocks together. 

Thank you!